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May 8, 2026

Laser settings for cork — cutting and engraving coasters, trivets, and stamps


Cork is one of the nicest materials to laser. It cuts cleanly, engraves with good contrast, does not need any coating, and produces very little smoke. The main mistake people make is treating it like wood and running settings that are appropriate for 3mm basswood on 2mm cork sheets. You end up with scorched edges, a brown halo around every engraved line, and coasters that smell like a fire sale.

Cork needs lower power and faster speed than most wood for the same thickness. This guide covers engraving and cutting settings for the thicknesses you are most likely to work with: 2mm cork sheet (standard coaster thickness), 3mm cork sheet, and 6mm corkboard for trivets and thick coasters.

Why cork behaves differently from wood

Cork is made of suberin, a waxy cell structure that is both soft and very porous. That porosity means the laser does not need to do much work to ablate material — the cell walls collapse quickly with heat. The wax content means cork can scorch and char at power levels that would produce a clean mark on basswood.

The practical effect: less power than you expect, and air assist on if you have it. Air assist clears the vaporised material and wax residue from the beam path, which prevents redeposition on your engraving and keeps the marks crisp.

Starting settings by machine type

These are starting points tested on natural cork sheet. Your results will vary depending on the cork density and brand — always test on a scrap piece from the same batch before running a full coaster set.

2mm cork — engraving

MachineSpeedPowerPassesAir assistNotes
10W diode (e.g. Sculpfun S9)4000 mm/min20–25%1On if availableVery light mark. Increase power 5% if too faint.
20W diode (e.g. xTool S1, Atomstack A20)6000 mm/min15–20%1OnFast pass prevents scorching. Start at 15%.
40W CO₂ (e.g. OMTech 40W)300 mm/s12–16%1OnCO₂ engraves cork very efficiently. Stay below 20%.
55W CO₂ (e.g. xTool P2)350 mm/s10–14%1OnExtra power needs faster speed. Test before full batch.

2mm cork — cutting

MachineSpeedPowerPassesAir assistNotes
10W diode2000 mm/min55–65%1–2OnUsually cuts in 1 pass. Check without AA first — some cork gums up.
20W diode3000 mm/min45–55%1OnSingle pass at medium power. Cork cuts easily.
40W CO₂200 mm/s18–22%1OnLow power is enough. Burn edge widens if you push power.

3mm cork — cutting

MachineSpeedPowerPassesAir assistNotes
10W diode1500 mm/min70–80%2OnTwo passes at moderate power. Inspect after pass 1.
20W diode2000 mm/min60–70%1–2OnOften single pass. Depends on cork density.
40W CO₂180 mm/s22–28%1OnSingle pass. Air assist prevents charring on cut edge.

Engraving coasters

The most common cork laser project is a set of coasters — usually round, 90–100mm diameter, cut from 2mm natural cork sheet. The pattern is simple: cut the circle, then engrave text, a logo, or a design on top.

Do the engrave first, then the cut. If you cut first, the pieces shift slightly and your registration for the engrave step will be off. Engrave in place, then cut — the coaster falls free when the cut is done.

Cork coasters often come in sheets with a backing. Check whether your sheet has a thin felt or fabric backing before cutting. Felt-backed cork needs an extra pass or two to cut through the backing layer, which behaves very differently from the cork. Some makers cut from the back side to avoid the backing layer adhesive gumming up the cut edge.

Engraving trivets

Trivets use 6mm or thicker corkboard. Thicker cork is denser than cork sheet and requires more power. You also may want to engrave a pattern across the full surface — a grid, hexagon tile, or repeating design — rather than just text. This is where you need to watch for scorching as the engrave spends more time on the material.

For area fills on thick cork: lower DPI (150–200 DPI is often enough), higher speed, and two passes at 60% power often gives a better result than one pass at high power. The cell structure is soft enough that you do not need to go deep to get a visible mark.

Cork as a stamp material

Natural cork makes a usable rubber stamp substitute for low-run hand-stamping projects. Laser out a design in reverse, press against an ink pad, and stamp onto paper. The laser ablates the background and leaves your design raised.

For stamps you want to remove material cleanly rather than just darken the surface. Engrave at medium-high power (around 40–50% on a 10W diode) with two passes to get enough depth for the raised design to print consistently. Deeper channels between elements prevent ink from bridging. Use fill engrave mode, not line engrave.

After-engraving finishing

Natural cork dust settles on the engraved surface after cutting. A soft brush or a quick wipe with a dry cloth is usually enough to clean it up. Avoid wet wipes or cleaning products on unfinished cork — the surface absorbs liquid and can swell or stain.

For coasters you want to actually use with drinks, a thin coat of water-based polyurethane or a cork-specific sealer makes the surface wipe-clean and stops the engraved lines from absorbing spills. Apply after engraving, not before — sealants change the way cork engraves.

Browse community cork settings by machineGet a coaster alignment jig template
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