A photo engrave that looks sharp and tonal on screen and muddy or overburnt in real life is almost always a resolution, dithering, or image preparation problem: not a power setting problem. This guide covers every variable in the chain: DPI, scan gap, gamma, dithering mode, and material-specific adjustments that produce consistent, photographic-quality results.
A laser engraver doesn't actually "know" about DPI. It sweeps back and forth in horizontal lines, and the distance between those lines is the scan gap (also called line interval in LightBurn). The scan gap determines the effective DPI of the engrave.
25.4 is the number of millimetres in an inch: the bridge between metric scan gap and imperial DPI. These two formulas are all you need.
Example: You want to engrave at 254 DPI.
Scan gap = 25.4 รท 254 = 0.100 mm.
In LightBurn: Edit โ Cut Settings โ Line Interval = 0.100 mm.
| DPI | Scan gap | Use when |
|---|---|---|
| 127 | 0.200 mm | Fast draft / material test |
| 254 | 0.100 mm | Standard: logos, text, simple art |
| 508 | 0.050 mm | Photos and portraits |
| 600 | 0.042 mm | Fine portrait detail |
| 1000 | 0.025 mm | Slate, anodized, glass |
Higher DPI = tighter scan gap = more scan lines per mm = more heat deposited per area. On wood, going from 254 to 508 DPI without reducing power will over-darken the image and lose shadow detail. When you increase DPI, reduce speed or power proportionally to keep total energy density constant. Run a test grid at your new DPI before the full job.
The source image quality determines the ceiling of your result. No setting in LightBurn recovers detail that wasn't in the original file.
Dithering is the process of converting a grayscale image into a binary dot pattern that fools the eye into perceiving tones. The laser is binary: it either fires or it doesn't, so every shade of gray must be approximated with a pattern of dots. Different algorithms suit different subjects.
If you pre-dither in Photo Prep and import the result into LightBurn, set LightBurn's mode to Threshold so it passes the image through without applying a second dithering pass on top.
The same image requires different preparation depending on the material. The table below covers typical starting points: always run a test grid on your specific material batch before the full job.
Boost midtones; basswood engraves pale: push contrast higher than you think
Thin plywood can warp at tight scan gaps. Use honeycomb or pin bed. Dry the wood first.
Dense grain absorbs more energy: reduce speed or add passes rather than increasing power
Hardwoods accumulate heat faster than plywood. Slow, lower-power passes outperform fast-high-power on portraits.
MDF engraves very dark: lift shadows aggressively in image prep or highlights will blow out
MDF produces fine dust and fumes. Strong ventilation essential. Never use moisture-resistant MDF: glues release toxic fumes.
Natural contrast: minimal image adjustments needed. Avoid over-darkening.
Chrome-tanned leather releases hexavalent chromium: never engrave. Veg-tan only. Lower power, higher speed for cleaner results.
Slate engraves white: invert the image. Boost highlights heavily to get tonal range.
Stone absorbs and holds heat: slow speeds help. Very high DPI (600+) produces photographic results on dark slate.
Engraves frosted white on coloured acrylic: works like a reverse image. Light areas in photo = unengraved = coloured acrylic.
DO NOT engrave clear acrylic: smoke redeposits and makes it foggy. Coloured/opaque acrylic only for photo work. Requires CO2 or dedicated diode IR wavelength.
Engraves to bare metal (silver). High contrast photos work best. Subtle tones are difficult.
Fiber laser only for permanent results. Diode/CO2 can engrave anodizing with coatings but marks are less durable.
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